White’s Ledge, Albany NH

After what feels like an eternity I was able to grab a day of rock climbing with my long time friend and climbing partner, Bob. I had been itching to check out a recently developed crag not far from my home, White’s Ledge in Albany, NH, and today proved a perfect day to head out there.

After dropping my son off at daycare in Conway we headed south on Rt 16 and quickly reached the White Ledge Campground parking lot at 9:30. The approach was in classic late Fall conditions, meaning slippery leaves covered the 1.7 mile steady climb to the toe of the cliff, which took us 55 minutes.

After getting geared up we decided on “Go West Young Man“, a fun looking 5.7 established by Brad White and Matt Peer this past summer. Bob cruised up pitch one:

Pitch one of Go West Young Man

Pitch 2 slowed us down a little. The route description states “Bring many very small nuts & cams”. They are not kidding! We had a normal rack with us, and without doubles/triples in the smaller C3/Alien sizes, along with some double smaller nuts, this crack is a bit hard to protect. We decided to come back for this pitch better equipped and retreated to “The Old Route“.

This route’s 2nd pitch is worthy of 3 stars, and we really enjoyed it!

The very classic 2nd pitch of the Old Route

Looking down the 2nd pitch amazing finger crack of nearby “Go West”… which we were not equipped for…

Looking up the last bit of the 2nd pitch of Old Route, which shares the finger crack of Go West for a bit…

I led the easier 3rd pitch up to a fixed anchor on a pine tree and from there we rappelled.

Looking down pitch 3 of the Old Route

One long double rope rappel and one short rappel put us on the ground. After coiling the ropes it was a short 30 minute hike down to the car, and soon after we were enjoying a couple cold IPA’s at a picnic table in the closed campground.

This is a really cool location, and I’m happy for the recent development. Looking forward to heading back there in the early Spring.

 

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About David Lottmann

David grew up skiing in the Whites and started climbing at a summer camp just north of Mt. Washington when he was 16. Those first couple of years solidified climbing as a lifetime passion. From 1996-2000 he served in the USMC, and spent the better part of those years traveling the globe (18 countries). After returning to civilian life he moved to North Conway to focus on climbing and was hired in 2004 as a Rock and Ice Instructor. Since then Dave has taken numerous AMGA courses, most recently attaining a Single Pitch Instructor. He has completed a Level 3 AIARE avalanche course, is a Level 2 Course Leader, holds a valid Wilderness First Responder and is a member of Mountain Rescue Service. When David isn't out guiding he enjoys mountain biking, kayaking, hiking, backcountry skiing, trying to cook something new once a week and sampling new micro-brews. He lives in Conway, NH with his wife Michelle and son Alex.
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6 Responses to White’s Ledge, Albany NH

  1. janet lottmann says:

    Nice post Dave!

  2. James Dickson says:

    Just read blog nice work. I see you have been posting on some stuff we have been developing sounds like you are enjoying your self. We should meet up an climb sometime. Cheers chinos mtn club

    • David Lottmann says:

      Thanks James, probably heading back out there on Monday. Is Casey Bald one of you Chinos guys?

      • James Dickson says:

        In a way he is, he has done some stuff in the new Durham area. We shall be posting a new cliff next weekend, we just put up twenty new lines. So I take it you know Casey

      • James Dickson says:

        Check out some of the routes on the upper right side like walk on the white side. It’s only one pitch but its some of the best positioning on the cliff.

  3. Pingback: Back to White’s Ledge | David Lottmann's Guiding Blog

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